Baycation 2013, Part IV: Eastport

We left Musgrave Harbour on the morning of August 12, under a beautiful blue sky. We took Route 330 along the “straight shore”, a stretch of road that hugs the coastline from Musgrave Harbour to Lumsden. It’s a picturesque ride, especially with the sun gleaming off the water. Route 330 becomes Route 320 at New-Wes-Valley, and continues on through several small communities before reaching the TCH at Gambo.

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Beautiful morning on the Straight Shore

We were on the TCH for less than 30km, turned off in Glovertown and headed for the Eastport Peninsula. We enjoyed some beautiful scenery when crossing the causeway. This area is protected as part of Terra Nova Park, and it really shows.

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Crossing the causeway

Eastport is a popular destination in the summer, there are many bed and breakfasts, efficiency cabins and restaurants. We had lunch at Little Denier Restaurant, a quaint little place with great service, fresh coffee and delicious thick-cut home fries.

After lunch we motored off to Salvage to do some exploring. I found Salvage absolutely captivating, there’s just something about that tiny community that just grabs you. I had read that there were several hiking trails in the area, so we parked the bikes, stripped off a few layers and traded our boots for sneakers. As much as I love to ride, I find that in order to really explore a new place I have to get off the bike and walk around.

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View of Salvage from the look-out

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If you click on this picture, you can see our bikes just above the blue building in the foreground

One of the first things that we noticed as soon as we hit the trail was that the ground was…blue. Blueberries everywhere! And HUGE! Blueberry picking must not be a popular pastime in this part of the province. We walked…and ate…and walked…and ate some more. Fortunately we did not fall victim to the berry’s gastrointestinal  effects on the ride back to Eastport!

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Mark thought the trail was very “Lord of the Rings”-ish!

The Salvage trails have fallen into disrepair in places, but are still well worth the time. The trail that we took brought us to two old cemeteries, which I find fascinating. I approach old cemeteries with a curious respect, and as I read the headstones I try to imagine what life was like for these people based on the era in which they lived. The cemetery on Burden’s Point just inside Salvage Harbour was particularly intriguing, as it dates to the mid 19th century. Many headstones had fallen over, and most of those still standing had been eroded by the elements so that the names and dates were no longer legible. As I stopped at one particularly weather-beaten headstone and gently brushed my fingertips over the now-lost words, I was struck with this fact: no matter what you own, how much money you have or how important you think you are, there will come a day when every trace of your existence will be wiped off. I don’t mean that to sound depressing or anything, in fact I think it’s the way it should be. We are but tiny specks in this universe, after all. Deep stuff for a motorcycle blog, huh?

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An abandoned, overgrown cemetery in Salvage

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The cemetery on Burden Point

We returned to the bikes and headed back to Eastport to check in to Inn By the Sea, a beautiful Cape Cod style Bed & Breakfast run by Marilyn and Graham Feltham. We were there long enough to change our clothes and head to the beach, just a short walk from the B&B. The beach was nice, but after just leaving Musgrave Harbour it didn’t really compare! Of course the water was much too cold for me to even dip a toe in, but the many kids on the beach didn’t seem to mind the temperature at all…funny that.

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Eastport beach in the early morning

We returned to our lodging and got cleaned up, and inquired as to where we could get a good meal. When we’re at home we don’t eat out except on special occasions, so when we’re on vacation we don’t mind spending a few extra bucks for a nice food experience. Our hosts recommended Chucky’s, a restaurant in the Inn at Happy Adventure. What a spot! I would compare it to places like Aqua or Blue on Water. It’s the kind of place where the server brings you fresh homemade bread before your meal. Mark had the evening’s special of fish & chips and said that it was probably the best that he’d ever eaten. I had a moose burger with locally-grown salad, and it was just fantastic.

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The view from our table at Chucky’s

After supper we returned to our B&B and spent the evening on the patio sipping on a beer and chatting with Gerald and Marilyn, and the other guests who were from Ontario. We had a great breakfast the next morning and were getting ready to head off when Marilyn asked if we liked old churches. I have a penchant for ANYTHING historical so my ears perked up when she described the Holy Cross Anglican Church, built in 1890 from locally-cut lumber. We stopped in on the way out of town, and were absolutely amazed at the ornate design, and the talent of the craftsmen who built it. This island has so many hidden treasures, we never would have thought of stopping at that church if we had not been told about it.

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Outside Holy Cross church

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The amount of work that went into this church is unreal!

Next stop, Bonavista!

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Posted on September 26, 2013, in Roads of Newfoundland and tagged , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. 1 Comment.

  1. Enjoyed this, Krista. Am a little familiar with the area, so could envision it as I read. I also like that you write using “proper English”, something I can’t say for all bloggers!

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